This appendix has four sections. C.1 covers the terms in this book that you learn from Grade 2. C.2 covers the terms you learn for Grade 1. These are words that explain in detail what happens inside fish and rice, and the business words of Part VIII. C.3 covers sushi-bar jargon, and C.4 covers the names of fish.

Each Japanese word is given in romanized form, with a short English explanation in parentheses. Terms written in the Latin alphabet are placed where their Japanese pronunciation falls. For example, HACCP is read "hassappu" in Japanese, so it is in the ha row. At the end of each explanation, we list the chapters that mainly cover the term. When the origin of a word is covered in C.3 or C.4, this is shown with an arrow, such as "→ C.3." On the exam, you will be asked less about the terms themselves and more about the "why" behind what they refer to. If the meaning of a term is unclear to you, go back to the chapter and check.

C.1　Terms in This Book (in Japanese Syllabary Order)

A row (a, i, u, e, o)

akazu (red vinegar)

A vinegar made from sake lees. It is also called kasuzu. It is reddish brown and has a mellow umami. It was the vinegar behind the vinegared rice of nigiri sushi in Edo (present-day Tokyo), and high-end restaurants are taking a fresh look at it today. Restaurants that use akazu sometimes add no sugar to their sushi vinegar (awasezu). (Chapters 8 and 25)

akami (lean tuna)

The lean part of tuna meat, with little fat. It is deep in color and has an iron-like flavor and a slight acidity. The red color is not blood. It comes from a pigment in the muscle called myoglobin. (Chapter 14)

agari (green tea)

The hot tea served at a sushi restaurant. It is made from konacha (fine tea leaf siftings) or sencha (whole-leaf green tea). The heat of the hot tea washes away the fat left in the mouth. The source of the tea's astringency (catechins) binds with proteins and tightens the inside of the mouth. In this way the mouth feels refreshed, and you can taste the next piece clearly. → C.3 (Chapter 21)

anaphylaxis

A severe allergic reaction that affects the whole body within a short time after a person eats a food that causes their allergy. It causes hives, difficulty breathing, and a drop in blood pressure, and it can be life-threatening. It can be triggered even when only a tiny amount has been transferred. So dedicated utensils are used to keep allergens from passing over from other ingredients. (Chapters 3 and 26)

Anisakis

The larva of a parasite found in mackerel, horse mackerel, sardine, Pacific saury, skipjack tuna, salmon, squid, and other seafood. It looks like a white thread 2 to 3 cm long. When the fish dies, the larva can move from the guts into the flesh. It is killed by freezing at −20°C for 24 hours or more (counted from the time the center of the fish reaches −20°C). It is also killed by heating to 70°C or higher, or at 60°C for 1 minute. Vinegar, salt, wasabi, and soy sauce do not kill it. (Chapters 3 and 12)

aburi (searing with a flame)

Grilling only the surface of the topping (neta) over an open flame. It is also called yakishimo. The fat under the skin melts, the browned parts add a toasty aroma (the Maillard reaction), and the heaviness of the fat is softened. The inside stays raw, so you can also enjoy the difference in temperature. (Chapter 14)

amylose and amylopectin

The two molecules that make up rice starch. Amylose has a straight-chain shape. The more amylose the rice has, the less sticky it is, and the more easily the cooked grains separate. Amylopectin has a branched, cluster-like shape and is the source of stickiness. Glutinous rice is made almost entirely of amylopectin. Non-glutinous rice (uruchi) contains both, and it is suited to vinegared rice. (Chapter 7)

allyl isothiocyanate

The pungent compound in wasabi. When wasabi is grated and its cells break, sinigrin and the enzyme myrosinase meet in the water of the cells, and this compound forms. It evaporates easily, so the heat is strongest 3 to 5 minutes after grating. After that it fades and leaves bitterness. It also helps hold back bacteria, but only as a supporting measure. (Chapter 21)

arukoru-su (spirit vinegar)

A vinegar made by fermenting distilled alcohol. It has little umami, but its acidity is sharp and clean. It is mixed with rice vinegar when you want a crisp acidity, or when curing fish with a lot of fat. (Chapter 8)

ikejime (killing the fish instantly and bleeding it)

A way of killing a live fish by quickly destroying its brain so that it dies instantly, then draining its blood. You pierce the head behind the eye, then cut where the brain joins the backbone (the medulla oblongata). The fish does not thrash and tire itself out, so rigor mortis is delayed. No blood remains in the flesh, so fishy odor and spoilage are also held back. Letting a fish die as it is, in the net or on ice, is called nojime, and its freshness drops quickly. (Chapters 10 and 11)

ichiban-tsumi (first harvest of nori)

The first nori picked each year. It is also called hatsu-tsumi. It comes on the market from late November to December. The young buds are soft, melt in the mouth, and have a good aroma, so top-grade nori for sushi is chosen from this harvest. (Chapter 21)

inosinic acid

The main umami compound of fish and of katsuobushi (dried bonito). After a fish dies, the energy source in its muscle is broken down by enzymes, and this compound forms. It increases with aging (jukusei), but as the breakdown goes further, it turns into a bitter compound. When it is tasted together with the glutamic acid in kombu, its umami becomes many times stronger. (Chapters 10 and 20)

uraoshi (flattening the back)

When sharpening a single-bevel knife, laying the back face flat on the whetstone and pulling it lightly. This removes the metal that curled over onto the back of the edge when the front was sharpened (the burr, or kaeri), and it finishes a sharp edge. (Chapter 22)

urasuki (hollow-ground back)

The shallow hollow on the back face of a Japanese knife. Only the edge and the spine touch the whetstone, so the back is easy to sharpen flat with uraoshi. Sliced flesh also comes off the blade easily. (Chapter 22)

uramaki (inside-out roll)

A roll with the nori on the inside and the shari (sushi rice) on the outside. It is said to have been created for guests outside Japan who were not used to black nori. The California roll is the classic example. You roll it with the makisu (bamboo rolling mat) wrapped in plastic wrap. (Chapters 24 and 25)

Edomae (Edo-style)

Originally, the sea in front of Edo (Edo Bay, today's Tokyo Bay) and the fish caught there. Later, the word came to mean a style of nigiri sushi. In this style, the fish is prepared by curing, simmering, or marinating, and then paired with vinegared rice. (Chapter 25)

FDA Food Code (the U.S. model food code)

A model set of food hygiene rules issued by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). States and cities adopt it as local ordinances. It covers freezing to control parasites in fish served raw, limits on touching food with bare hands, and menu notices when raw food is served, among other things. For the freezing conditions, see A.4 in Appendix A. (Chapters 1, 6, and 26)

engawa (fin muscle of flounder)

The muscle that moves the dorsal and anal fins of olive flounder (hirame) and other flounder. It moves a lot, so it is rich in fat and collagen and has a crunchy, chewy bite. Only a small amount can be taken from one fish. (Chapter 15)

enterotoxin

A toxin that Staphylococcus aureus makes as it multiplies in food. It is not destroyed even by heating at 100°C for 30 minutes. (Chapter 3 and Appendix B)

Staphylococcus aureus

A bacterium found in people's noses, on the skin, and in cuts on the hands. It can multiply even at a salt level of about 15%. As it multiplies in food, it makes a toxin (enterotoxin), and this toxin is not destroyed by heat. Prevention rests on two pillars. First, keep the bacteria off food through handwashing and the care of wounds. Second, keep them from multiplying by holding food at 10°C or below. (Chapter 3 and Appendix B)

otoshibuta (drop lid)

A lid one size smaller than the pot, placed directly on the simmering liquid. The boiling liquid hits the lid and circulates, so even a small amount of liquid reaches the top surface of the anago (conger eel). The lid keeps the food from drying out or falling apart, and the food cooks evenly. (Chapter 19)

oboro (sweet fish or shrimp floss)

Sweet flakes made by grinding white-fleshed fish or shrimp and stir-cooking it with sugar and salt. In Edomae sushi, a little is tucked under silver-skinned fish (hikarimono) such as kohada (gizzard shad), or it is used in rolls. Some restaurants add egg, so take care with allergen labeling. (Chapters 19 and 26)

omakase (chef's choice) and okonomi (ordering piece by piece)

Omakase is a style of service in which the chef decides the order and the content. The chef builds the sequence according to the nature of the flavors: from light flavors to fattier ones, then to cured items, simmered items, and finally rolls and tamagoyaki (Japanese omelet). It is the standard at today's high-end restaurants. Okonomi is a style in which the guest orders one piece at a time. (Chapter 26)

onensui kaito (thawing in warm salt water)

A method of thawing only the surface of frozen tuna or similar fish in salt water at about 40°C with a salt level of about 3%. As soon as the surface thaws, take the fish out, and let it thaw to the core in the refrigerator. This works because salt water close in strength to seawater makes the flesh absorb less water than fresh water does. However, 3% is not the same concentration as the fish's body fluids. (Chapter 12)

Ka row (ka, ki, ku, ke, ko)

gaiko-nainan (firm outside, soft inside)

The ideal form of the rice ball for nigiri (shari-dama). The grains on the outside stick together just enough to hold the shape. The grains inside are not packed tight and hold air. When you put it in your mouth, the outside gives way and the rice falls gently apart. (Chapters 9 and 24)

kaeri (burr)

A thin curl of metal that forms on the opposite side of the edge when you sharpen a knife. It is also called bari. When a burr has formed along the whole edge, that is the sign that the edge is sharpened. You remove the burr with uraoshi. (Chapter 22)

kazari-bocho (decorative scoring) and kakushi-bocho (hidden scoring)

Shallow, visible cuts made on the top of the topping are decorative scoring. Cuts made on a side that is not seen, such as the underside that touches the shari, are called hidden scoring, and the two are distinguished. Both cut through tough fibers to make the topping easier to bite through and to help the soy sauce cling. They are used on squid, kohada, and other toppings. (Chapters 13, 17, and 23)

kasuzu (sake-lees vinegar)

A vinegar made from sake lees. It is the same as akazu. In 1804 (Bunka 1), Nakano Matazaemon, a sake brewer in Handa in Owari Province, began making it. It was shipped to Edo and became the vinegar behind the vinegared rice of nigiri sushi. (Chapters 8 and 25)

kataba (single-bevel) and moroha (double-bevel)

A knife sharpened on only one side of the blade is single-bevel. Most Japanese knives, such as the yanagiba (slicing knife) and the deba (heavy filleting knife), are single-bevel. Sliced flesh comes off the blade easily, and you can slice thinly and precisely. A knife sharpened from both sides is double-bevel. (Chapter 22)

catechins

The compounds in tea that cause its astringency. They bind with proteins and tighten them (an astringent action), which makes the mouth feel refreshed. Washing away the fat left in the mouth is the work of the tea's heat. (Chapter 21)

kani-ana (steam holes)

Small holes that open on the surface of freshly cooked rice. They are the paths of steam bubbles that formed at the bottom of the pot over strong heat and pushed their way up between the grains. They are taken as a sign that strong convection took place in the pot and the rice cooked evenly. (Chapter 7)

spores (bacterial endospores)

Dormant shells, very resistant to heat and drying, that some bacteria make, such as Clostridium perfringens and Bacillus cereus. Spores survive heating at 100°C, and when conditions improve, they wake up and multiply. The countermeasure is to divide cooked food into small portions and cool it quickly. (Chapter 2 and Appendix B)

gari (pickled ginger)

Ginger pickled in sweet vinegar. Young ginger, on the market from June to August, is the best raw material. Slice it thinly and blanch it. Squeeze out the water firmly while it is hot, and then pickle it in sweet vinegar so that the flavor goes all the way in. Its heat and acidity reset the mouth and cleanse the palate. Guests put it directly in their mouths, so do not pick it up with your hands when serving. Use dedicated chopsticks or tongs. → C.3 (Chapter 21)

kanpyo (dried gourd strips)

Thin strips peeled from the fruit of the bottle gourd and dried. They are rehydrated in water, simmered sweet and salty with soy sauce and sugar, and used as a filling for thin rolls. Kanpyo is a basic of Edomae rolls. It is said that you can tell a restaurant's work by how it simmers kanpyo. (Chapter 24)

kiken ondotai (temperature danger zone)

The temperature range of 10 to 60°C, in which many food-poisoning bacteria multiply. They multiply fastest at around 30 to 40°C. Keep the time food spends in this range as short as possible. Standards outside Japan often set the range at 5 to 60°C (the U.S. FDA uses 5 to 57°C). (Chapters 2 and 5)

kiritsuke (slicing the topping)

Cutting one slice from a saku (trimmed block of fillet) to place on nigiri. You use the long blade of a yanagiba and cut with a single pull toward you. This is called the pull cut (hikigiri). (Chapter 23)

gin-kawa (silver skin layer)

The shiny silver layer on the inside of the skin of silver-skinned fish such as horse mackerel, mackerel, and kohada. Crystals of a substance called guanine reflect light like a mirror. It is also called the guanine layer. When you remove the skin, you leave this layer on the flesh. (Chapter 16)

glutamic acid

An umami compound found in large amounts in kombu. It is one of the amino acids. It is drawn out in water at about 60°C over about 1 hour. Boiling brings out sliminess and off-flavors. When it is tasted together with the inosinic acid in fish or katsuobushi, the umami feels 7 to 8 times stronger. (Chapter 20)

gunkan (battleship roll)

Nigiri with a strip of nori wrapped around the shari and topped with toppings that do not hold a fixed shape, such as ikura (salmon roe) or uni (sea urchin). The nori quickly absorbs moisture from the shari and shrinks, so serve it as soon as it is wrapped. → C.3 (Chapter 24)

geso (squid tentacles)

The legs, or arms, of a squid. Rub them with salt to remove the hard rings of the suckers, and boil them briefly. Then brush them with tsume (sweet reduced sauce) and make nigiri, or sear them. → C.3 (Chapter 17)

kenshoku (retained food samples)

Keeping a small amount of each dish served and its ingredients, in case a food poisoning investigation is ever needed. Under Japan's rules for large-scale cooking facilities, about 50 g of each dish and each ingredient is sealed and stored at −20°C or below for 2 weeks or more. Small restaurants also adopt this idea. (Chapter 26)

kosa osen (cross-contamination)

The passing of bacteria, or of ingredients that cause allergies, from raw fish or dirty hands and utensils to another food. To prevent it, keep separate utensils for the dirty process of scaling and gutting (mizu-arai) and the clean process of cutting saku. Or clean and disinfect between one task and the next. (Chapter 4)

kosui (hard water)

Water high in calcium and magnesium. These minerals are said to harden the structure of the rice and make it harder for water to pass through. So rice cooked in hard water tends to turn out dry and hard. Take care when you cook rice outside Japan. (Chapter 7)

korimizu kaito (thawing in ice water)

A method of thawing fish by sealing it in a bag with the air removed and submerging it in ice water at 0 to 1°C. It is many times faster than thawing in the refrigerator. The surface temperature stays near 0°C, so there is less damage to the flesh and less drip. (Chapter 12)

koka (gelatinization)

The change of rice starch, through water and heat, into a swollen, soft, and sticky state. It is also called alpha conversion. Cooking rice means gelatinizing its starch. If the rice is not soaked long enough, only the surface gelatinizes first and forms a film, and the center stays hard. (Chapter 7)

kobujime (curing between kombu sheets)

Salting white-fleshed fish, sandwiching it between sheets of kombu, and letting it rest. The kombu absorbs excess moisture and firms the flesh. The umami of the kombu (glutamic acid) combines with the umami of the fish (inosinic acid), and the umami grows stronger. (Chapters 13 and 15)

komai (previous year's rice) and shinmai (new-crop rice)

Rice harvested in the current year is shinmai. Rice from the previous year, used until the next new crop comes out, is komai. During storage, the components of komai (lipids, starch, proteins, and others) change little by little, and the grains become harder. It is said that when komai is cooked, the grains stand apart and are less sticky. It takes longer to soak than shinmai. Some restaurants mix komai into shinmai. (Chapter 7)

collagen

A tough protein that makes up skin and sinew. When it is heated at a low temperature for a long time, it turns into gelatin and gives a melting texture. It is the source of the tenderness of soft-simmered abalone, and of the body and gloss of tsume. (Chapters 14, 18, 19, and 20)

Sa row (sa, shi, su, se, so)

saidai hyokessho seiseitai (zone of maximum ice crystal formation)

The temperature range of −5 to −1°C, where most of the water in the flesh turns into ice. If the fish passes through this range slowly, ice crystals grow large and break the cells, and drip comes out when the fish is thawed. Quick freezing and quick thawing are ways of passing through this zone fast. (Chapter 12)

sakiire sakidashi (first in, first out, or FIFO)

The rule of using older items first. Put older items in front and newer items in back, and write the date on containers. Apply it not only to the fish you buy, but also to prepared toppings and to house-made tsume, nikiri (simmered soy glaze), gari, and sushi vinegar. (Chapter 5)

saku (trimmed block of fillet)

A filleted piece of fish cut into a rectangular block that is easy to slice. This work is called saku-dori, or cutting saku blocks. (Chapter 23)

samegawa (sharkskin grater)

A grater for wasabi, made of sharkskin mounted on a board. The finer its tiny bumps crush the cells, the better the source of the heat and the enzyme meet, and the stronger the heat and aroma become. This reaction does not need oxygen. (Chapter 21)

sanmai oroshi (three-piece filleting)

The basic way of filleting, which divides a fish into three pieces: the upper fillet, the lower fillet, and the backbone. Flat fish such as hirame and other flounder are cut by five-piece filleting (gomai oroshi). (Chapter 23)

sodium hypochlorite

A chlorine-based disinfectant that also works against norovirus. Dilute it to 200 ppm for cutting boards and cleaning cloths, and to 1,000 ppm for cleaning up vomit and feces. It rusts metal, and mixing it with acidic detergents releases a toxic gas. (Chapters 3 and 4)

ciguatera

Food poisoning caused by a natural toxin (ciguatoxin) that builds up in large fish living on tropical and subtropical coral reefs. Besides diarrhea and vomiting, its hallmark is a disturbed sense of temperature, in which cold things feel hot. Heating does not destroy the toxin. (Chapter 3 and Appendix B)

shigo kochoku (rigor mortis)

The stiffening of a fish's flesh some time after it dies. In time the stiffness eases, and after that, aging proceeds. Ikejime and low temperatures delay its onset. However, for some fish such as red sea bream (madai), chilling to 0°C right after killing actually makes it start sooner. (Chapter 10)

jiko shoka (autolysis)

The breakdown of proteins and other substances in the flesh by the fish's own enzymes after it dies. It creates the umami of aging. But if it goes too far, the flesh falls apart, and it overlaps with spoilage by bacteria. The soft, sweet texture of ama-ebi (sweet shrimp) also comes from this process. (Chapters 10 and 17)

sinigrin and myrosinase

Sinigrin is the compound in wasabi that is the source of its heat. Myrosinase is the enzyme that breaks it down. The two are stored in separate places in the cells. When grating breaks the cells, they meet and form the pungent compound (allyl isothiocyanate). That is why wasabi is not hot before it is grated. (Chapter 21)

shari (sushi rice)

Sushi rice, that is, vinegared rice. → C.3 (Chapters 7, 8, and 9)

shari-giri (mixing vinegar into the rice)

Spreading freshly cooked rice in the handai (wooden rice tub), sprinkling on the sushi vinegar while the rice is hot, and mixing it with a cutting motion as it cools. (Chapter 9)

shuren (astringency)

The action of setting, shrinking, and tightening proteins. The catechins in tea tightening the inside of the mouth, and alum keeping uni from falling apart, are both examples of this action. (Chapters 19 and 21)

jukusei (aging)

Letting killed fish rest cleanly at 0 to 4°C (ideally 0 to 2°C), so that the fish's own enzymes increase its umami and soften its flesh. It is different from spoilage, in which bacteria multiply. If an ammonia-like smell or bitterness appears, it is not aging but spoilage. (Chapters 2 and 10)

shohi kigen (use-by date) and shomi kigen (best-before date)

The use-by date means "the date until which the food can be eaten safely." It is put on perishable foods such as sushi, sashimi, and boxed meals. Discard the food if it is even 1 day past this date. The best-before date means "the date until which the food tastes good." It is put on foods that keep, such as vinegar, soy sauce, dried foods, and canned goods. Food is not immediately dangerous after this date, but judge it by how it has been stored. (Chapters 5 and 26)

shinkei-jime (destroying the spinal cord)

After ikejime, running a wire through the nerve inside the backbone to destroy it. Even after the brain is destroyed, the body keeps moving for a while and uses up energy, and this technique stops that. It delays rigor mortis further, to "buy time." It does not directly improve the flavor. (Chapters 10 and 11)

shinto-atsu (osmotic pressure)

When two liquids of different concentrations touch across a membrane, water tends to move from the weaker liquid to the stronger one. Osmotic pressure is the force behind this movement. Salt drawing water out of fish, and flesh turning watery when soaked in fresh water, both come from this force. (Chapter 13)

su-arai (vinegar rinse)

Quickly rinsing the salt off the surface of salt-cured fish with vinegar instead of water. If you rinse with fresh water, the flesh sucks back the water that the salt drew out and turns watery. The salt on the surface and the acid of the vinegar also firm the flesh. (Chapters 13 and 16)

sukibiki (shaving off scales with the knife)

A method of laying the knife nearly flat and shaving the scales off thinly, together with the surface of the skin. You do not press hard, so the flesh is less likely to split. The dirt at the base of the scales also comes off, which is hygienic. (Chapters 13 and 23)

su-jime (vinegar curing) and shio-jime (salt curing)

Shio-jime means salting fish to draw out water and firm the flesh. Soaking it in vinegar afterward is su-jime, and kohada and mackerel are the classic examples. Curing is not a process that kills bacteria. It is a process that slows spoilage. Anisakis is killed by neither vinegar nor salt. (Chapters 13 and 16)

seishoku-yo (for raw consumption) and kanetsu-yo (for cooking)

"For raw consumption" is a label for seafood that meets Japan's national standards for eating raw. These standards cover bacteria counts, the water used for washing, storage at 10°C or below, and so on. Never serve raw any shellfish or fish labeled "for cooking." (Chapters 18 and 26)

Bacillus cereus

A bacterium that comes from soil and is often found on rice. It forms spores and multiplies in cooked rice and pasta. The toxin that causes vomiting is not destroyed even by heating at 126°C for 90 minutes. The countermeasure is not to leave cooked rice at room temperature for long. This is why there is an upper limit on how long shari is kept warm. (Chapters 6 and 9, and Appendix B)

senjo (cleaning) and shodoku (disinfection)

Cleaning means removing dirt with detergent, water, and physical force. Disinfection means killing or reducing the remaining bacteria with heat or chemicals. The order is always the same: wash with detergent, rinse, disinfect, and dry. If you disinfect on top of dirt, the disinfectant does not reach the bacteria. (Chapter 4)

sojo koka (umami synergy)

When the glutamic acid in kombu and the inosinic acid in fish or katsuobushi are tasted together, the umami grows stronger, not by addition but as if by multiplication. It feels 7 to 8 times stronger than either one alone. It happens not inside the flesh but on the tongue as you eat. It is the reason behind kobujime and blended dashi (soup stock). (Chapters 13 and 20)

Ta row (ta, chi, tsu, te, to)

tate-jio (about 3% brine)

Salt water with a salt level of about 3% (30 g of salt per 1 L of water). Its concentration is close to that of seawater (about 3.4%). So, unlike fresh water, it washes off dirt and blood without making the flesh absorb water. It is used to prepare fish such as hikarimono, and salt water of the same strength is also used to make shellfish spit out sand. Shucked shellfish are rinsed briefly in fresh water (Chapter 18). Its concentration is not the same as that of the fish's body fluids, which are about one-third the strength of seawater. (Chapters 13 and 16)

chiai (dark meat)

Dark red flesh that runs along the line on the side of the fish's body (the lateral line). It is rich in myoglobin and blood, gives off odors easily, and changes color quickly. In sushi, it is removed, or it is used only when very fresh. (Chapters 14 and 16)

chikuyo (ranching)

Catching wild fish, feeding them in holding pens, and fattening them before shipping. In tuna, fatty feed is said to spread fat through the whole body and give the flesh a rich, dense texture, but the flesh can also become too heavy. On labels, ranched fish counts as "farmed." (Chapter 14)

Vibrio parahaemolyticus

A bacterium that lives in seawater and causes food poisoning from seafood in summer. It is weak against fresh water and does not multiply at 4°C or below. Under the best conditions, it doubles in 8 to 10 minutes. It is the bacterium whose count is specifically limited in Japan's standards for seafood for raw consumption. (Chapter 3)

zuke (marinated in soy sauce)

Tuna or other fish soaked in a marinade based on soy sauce. It was born in the Edo period, before there were refrigerators, as a way to preserve tuna. Today some restaurants scald the surface first (yushimo) and then marinate the fish, so that the marinade does not soak in too far. → C.3 (Chapters 14 and 25)

tsukeba (the chef's work area behind the counter) and tsukedai (counter ledge where nigiri is served)

The tsukeba is the work area inside the counter where the chef makes sushi. The tsukedai is the ledge in front of the guest where the nigiri is placed. Wipe the tsukedai with a clean cleaning cloth each time a guest leaves. → C.3 (Chapter 26)

tsume (sweet reduced sauce)

A sweet, thick sauce brushed on anago and simmered shellfish. It is made by adding soy sauce, sugar, and mirin to the anago simmering liquid and boiling it down. The name is a shortened form of nitsume, meaning "boiled down." As the fish gelatin and the sugar reduce, they produce gloss, body, and a toasty aroma. The sauce is kept going by adding to it. But do not leave it at room temperature. Heat it every day, and refrigerate it once it has cooled. (Chapters 19 and 20)

tegaeshi (hand-turning sequence)

The series of movements in which the shari and the topping are joined in the hand, turned over, and shaped. There are several forms, such as hon-tegaeshi, kote-gaeshi, and tate-gaeshi. The more movements you make, the more of the chef's body heat (about 36°C) passes to the topping and melts its fat. So whatever the form, you make nigiri with as few movements as possible. (Chapter 24)

tezu (vinegared hand water)

Vinegared water used to moisten the hands when making nigiri. It is hand water (temizu) with vinegar added. It keeps rice grains from sticking to the hands. It also keeps the surface of the hands weakly acidic, so bacteria are less likely to settle there. This is one of the reasons chefs can make nigiri with bare hands (Chapter 6). (Chapters 6 and 24)

teri (gloss)

The shine on the surface of shari that has been cooled quickly after shari-giri. It is said to appear because water evaporates rapidly from the surface of the grains and the surface tightens. (Chapter 9)

denpun no roka (starch retrogradation)

The return of starch that was softened by cooking to its original hard state over time. It goes fastest at 0 to 4°C. So shari is not put in the refrigerator, but kept at body temperature (hitohada). (Chapter 9)

tenmi (prime center of the loin)

The finest part of the lean tuna, at the center of the back side, with few sinews and a fine texture. In contrast, nakaochi is the meat scraped from around the backbone. Nakaochi is soft and full of umami, but because it was touching the bone, its freshness drops faster. (Chapter 14)

do-nabe (copper tamagoyaki pan)

A copper pan for making tamagoyaki. Copper conducts heat very well and spreads it evenly over the whole pan. So you can cook the omelet fluffy, holding in its dashi, without burning it. The inside is lined with tin. Tin melts at 232°C, so never heat the pan empty. (Chapter 19)

doware (fissured grains)

Cracks that form in rice grains when soaked rice is left too long in a colander and dries out. When the rice is cooked, starch flows out of the cracks, and the rice turns sticky. As a guide, after draining the rice in the colander (zaru-age), move it into the pot within 15 to 30 minutes. (Chapter 7)

tokutei genzairyo (specified allergenic ingredients)

The 9 items for which allergy labeling is mandatory under Japan's food labeling rules. They are shrimp, crab, walnuts, wheat, buckwheat, egg, milk, peanuts, and cashew nuts. Cashew nuts were added in April 2026, with a 2-year transition period. Separately, labeling is recommended for 20 other items. Soy sauce and nikiri contain wheat. (Chapters 3 and 26)

drip (juices lost from the flesh)

The liquid that runs out of fish flesh during thawing or slicing. Umami compounds leave together with the water, so the more drip there is, the more flavor is lost. Drip may contain bacteria, and it also feeds them. It is held back by quick thawing and by the pull cut. (Chapters 5, 12, and 23)

toro (fatty tuna)

The fatty parts of tuna. On the belly side, the fat is thicker the closer you get to the head. The especially fatty part of the belly near the skin is called otoro. The part with a good balance of fat and lean meat is called chutoro. (Chapter 14)

Na row (na, ni, nu, ne, no)

namanare (lightly fermented sushi)

A type of nare-zushi (fermented sushi) that spread in the Muromachi period, with the fermentation shortened to between a few days and a few weeks. The rice is eaten with the fish while it still holds its shape. Namanare marked the turning point from "a preserved food whose rice is thrown away" to "a dish in which both rice and fish are eaten." (Chapter 25)

nare-zushi (fermented sushi)

A preserved food made by packing salted fish with rice and letting it go through lactic acid fermentation. It is the oldest form of sushi. The acid made by the lactic acid fermentation protects the fish. The rice is there for the fermentation and is not eaten. Funa-zushi (fermented crucian carp sushi) is the classic example. (Chapters 6 and 25)

nikiri (simmered soy glaze)

Soy sauce for sushi, made by adding sake or mirin to soy sauce and heating it to cook off the alcohol. This keeps the smell of alcohol from masking the aroma of the fish, and it softens the sharp edges of the soy sauce and makes it mellow. The chef brushes it onto the nigiri. (Chapter 20)

nido-arai (double handwashing)

Washing your hands twice in a row. The first wash removes skin oils and heavy dirt. The second wash gets the soap into the wrinkles and under the nails. Do it in situations with a lot of contamination, such as after using the toilet or after touching raw fish. (Chapter 4)

neta (topping)

The fish, shellfish, tamagoyaki, and other ingredients placed on top of sushi. → C.3

norovirus

A food-poisoning virus that is common in winter. It spreads from bivalves and from the hands of infected people. It is said to be transmitted by a tiny amount, about 10 to 100 virus particles. It causes vomiting and diarrhea 24 to 48 hours after eating. It is dealt with by heating at 85 to 90°C for 90 seconds or more, and with sodium hypochlorite. Alcohol does not work well against it, so wash it off your hands with double handwashing. (Chapters 3 and 4)

Ha row (ha, hi, fu, he, ho)

HACCP

A method of hygiene management. You think ahead about the hazards that can arise in each step, from receiving raw materials to serving food. You decide the points that need special control and the limits for them, and you check them with records. In Japan, since June 2021, it has in principle been mandatory for all food business operators. Outside Japan too, depending on the country or region, it can be a condition of a business license. (Chapters 5 and 26)

haya-zushi (quick sushi)

Sushi made by mixing vinegar into the rice instead of fermenting it. It spread in the Edo period. Because it could be made in one night, it was also called ichiya-zushi, or "overnight sushi." It became the origin of hako-zushi (box sushi), oshi-zushi (pressed sushi), and chirashi (scattered sushi). (Chapter 25)

handai (wooden rice tub)

A shallow, wide wooden tub used for shari-giri. Wood such as sawara cypress absorbs excess moisture and releases it again as it dries. Moisten the tub before use. After use, wash it well and let it dry completely. (Chapter 9)

pH

A number that shows how acidic or alkaline something is. It runs from 0 to 14. A pH of 7 is neutral, and the smaller the number, the stronger the acid. A pH of 4.6 is the lower limit at which Clostridium botulinum can multiply, and it is widely used as a dividing line in food hygiene. Some bacteria, such as Staphylococcus aureus, can multiply at a somewhat lower pH. Vinegared rice is generally pH 4.0 to 4.5. So acid alone is not enough. Safety is protected by combining acid with time control. (Chapters 2, 6, and 8)

ppm (parts per million)

A unit of concentration meaning one part in a million. A concentration of 1 ppm is 0.0001%. Sodium hypochlorite at 200 ppm is 0.02%, and at 1,000 ppm it is 0.1%. (Chapter 4)

hikarimono (silver-skinned fish)

Blue-backed fish and small fish that are made into nigiri with the silver of their skin left on. Examples are kohada, mackerel, horse mackerel, Japanese halfbeak (sayori), Japanese whiting (kisu), Pacific saury, and sardine. They spoil quickly, so these toppings are often cured with salt and vinegar. → C.3 (Chapter 16)

hikigiri (pull cut)

A way of cutting with the long blade of a yanagiba, pulling it toward you in one stroke. It does not crush the flesh, so the cut surface is smooth with crisp, sharp edges, and less drip comes out. (Chapter 23)

histamine

A substance formed when bacteria change a compound (histidine) that is abundant in red-fleshed fish such as tuna, skipjack tuna, and mackerel. Once histamine has formed, neither heating nor freezing destroys it. It can form even under refrigeration if the fish is kept a long time. Within 1 hour of eating, it causes symptoms such as a flushed face and hives. The basis of prevention is keeping the fish at a low temperature from the time it is caught until it is served. (Chapters 3 and 14, and Appendix B)

hitohada (body temperature)

The right temperature for shari when making nigiri: about 35 to 37°C. Rice hardens when it is chilled, so shari is not put in the refrigerator. (Chapters 9 and 24)

hin-on (food temperature)

The temperature of the food itself. It is different from the temperature of the air inside the refrigerator (the refrigerator air temperature). Even when the refrigerator display reads 3°C, the core of a fish that was just put in may be above 10°C. Measure it by inserting a probe thermometer. (Chapter 5)

phycoerythrin

A red pigment in nori. It is weak against heat, and it breaks down and disappears when the nori is toasted. The heat-resistant green pigment (chlorophyll) remains, so toasted nori turns a bright green. (Chapter 21)

fuhai (spoilage)

The breakdown of proteins and other substances in fish by bacteria, which produces foul-smelling substances and slime. It is different from aging, and spoiled fish cannot be used. (Chapters 2 and 10)

black light (UV light)

A light that gives off ultraviolet rays. Anisakis glows bluish white under ultraviolet light, so it is easier to find than by eye alone. However, you can see only the larvae within about 0.5 mm of the surface. A black light is a supporting tool, and it does not replace freezing. (Chapter 3)

hosomaki (thin roll) and futomaki (thick roll)

A hosomaki is a roll made with a half sheet of nori and only one kind of filling. Classic examples are tekka (tuna), kappa (cucumber), kanpyo, and shinko (pickles). A futomaki is a roll made with a full sheet of nori and many kinds of filling, such as tamagoyaki, kanpyo, and shiitake. → C.3 (Chapter 24)

Ma, ya, ra, and wa rows

matsukawa-zukuri (skin-on sea bream scalded so the skin looks like pine bark)

A preparation of red sea bream. A cloth is laid over the skin, and boiling water is poured over it. The fish is put straight into ice water and then sliced with the skin on. The name comes from the shrunken skin, which looks like the bark of a pine tree. This preparation makes the most of the umami between the skin and the flesh. It is one kind of yushimo. (Chapters 13 and 15)

myoglobin

A red pigment that stores oxygen in muscle. It is the source of the color of lean tuna. It is abundant in the red muscle of fish that swim continuously for long periods. There is almost none in white-fleshed fish such as sea bream and hirame. (Chapters 14 and 15)

myoban (alum)

A food additive used to help uni keep its shape. It firms the flesh and keeps the uni from melting from its own enzymes. Too much alum passes bitterness and astringency to the uni. There is also uni packed in salt water, which uses no alum. (Chapter 19)

mucin

The main component of the slime on the surface of octopus. It is a mucus made of sugars bound to proteins, and it is a source of fishy odor. Rub the octopus with salt so the slime rises as foam, and wash it away. (Chapter 17)

Maillard reaction

A reaction in which sugars and amino acids combine through heat and other factors, producing a brown color and a toasty aroma. It is the source of the toasty aroma of aburi, the gloss and aroma of tsume, and the color of akazu. (Chapters 8, 14, 19, and 20)

metoka (browning of tuna, or metmyoglobin formation)

The dulling of tuna's red color to brown. It happens when the iron in the pigment that gives the color (myoglobin) oxidizes. Once the flesh turns brown, it does not return to its original red. Browning is slowed by keeping the fish cold and shielding it from air and light. (Chapter 14)

yushimo (scalding then chilling in ice water)

Pouring boiling water over the skin or flesh of fish and immediately cooling it in ice water. This sets only the surface, softens the skin, and removes odors. Matsukawa-zukuri of red sea bream is one example. (Chapters 13, 14, and 15)

yubiki (quick blanching)

Passing an ingredient through hot water to cook only the surface, then stopping the cooking in ice water. It is used for shirako (milt), the skin of longtooth grouper (kue), and other ingredients. (Chapters 13 and 15)

reitoyake (freezer burn)

During frozen storage, ice on the surface turns directly into water vapor without melting and escapes. The surface becomes dry and white, and the flavor is lost. The fat also oxidizes, and the color and smell change. Freezer burn happens easily in freezers at around −18°C. It is prevented by ultra-low temperatures and airtight sealing. If food that has been thawed once is frozen again, freezer burn and cell damage add up, so do not refreeze. (Chapter 12)

wasabi (hon-wasabi and horseradish)

Real wasabi (hon-wasabi) is a plant native to Japan, and its rhizome is grated for use. Horseradish, called "Western wasabi" in Japanese, is a different plant. Most of the powders and tubes sold as "wasabi" outside Japan are made from horseradish. The heat forms when grating breaks the cells, and it is strongest after 3 to 5 minutes. → C.3 (Chapter 21)

C.2　Terms for Grade 1 (in Japanese Syllabary Order)

These are words for explaining in detail what happens inside fish and rice. The business words of Part VIII are also included here. For the business words, we give only the general meanings used in Chapters 27 to 31.

A row (a, i, u, e, o)

actin and myosin

The two proteins that move muscle. While the fish is alive, they bind and release using the power of ATP. When the fish dies and its ATP runs out, they stay firmly bound and cannot separate, and the flesh stiffens. This is rigor mortis. (Chapter 10)

arajio (coarse salt) and yakijio (roasted salt)

Coarse salt has large grains and contains moisture. It dissolves slowly while drawing out water. So it is suited to removing excess water from deep inside the fish without suddenly making the surface salty. Roasted salt is free-flowing salt that has been heated to drive off its moisture. It can be sprinkled quickly and evenly. (Chapters 13 and 20)

arari (gross profit)

What remains after subtracting food cost (the cost of ingredients) from sales. It is also called arari-eki. Expenses such as labor cost and rent are paid out of this gross profit. (Chapter 27)

ATP (adenosine triphosphate)

Adenosine triphosphate. It is the energy source that moves muscle. When a fish dies and its ATP runs out, rigor mortis sets in. The remaining ATP is broken down by enzymes in this order: ADP, AMP, IMP (inosinic acid), inosine, and hypoxanthine. (Chapter 10)

FL ratio (food plus labor costs as a share of sales)

The share of sales taken by food cost (F, for food) and labor cost (L, for labor) combined. It is a figure for looking at a restaurant's two largest expenses together. (Chapter 27)

Ka row (ka, ki, ku, ke, ko)

QSC (quality, service, cleanliness)

The initials of three things: quality, service, and cleanliness. They are considered the three pillars that let a restaurant last a long time. (Chapter 31)

glycogen

A type of sugar that animals store in their bodies. It contributes to the richness (koku) of shellfish. Glycogen itself is barely sweet. The sweetness of scallops comes mainly from amino acids such as glycine and alanine. If you cut the adductor muscle across its fibers, these amino acids touch the tongue more easily, and the sweetness feels stronger. (Chapter 18)

K value (a freshness index)

A guide figure for the freshness of fish. ATP breaks down into a series of substances. The K value is the percentage of all these substances that is made up of inosine and hypoxanthine, the products of advanced breakdown. The lower the value, the fresher the fish. The guide for eating raw is said to be 20% or less, and top-grade fish for sashimi is said to be around 10%. (Chapter 10)

genka-ritsu (food cost percentage)

The share of sales taken by food cost (the cost of ingredients). You find it by dividing food cost by sales. For example, if 1,000 yen in sales uses 400 yen of ingredients, the food cost percentage is 40%. In sushi, the food cost percentage varies greatly from topping to topping. (Chapter 27)

5S (seiri, seiton, seiso, seiketsu, shitsuke)

Five practices: seiri, seiton, seiso, seiketsu, and shitsuke. Seiri means getting rid of the things you do not need. Seiton means arranging things so that you can take out what you need at any time. Seiso means cleaning. Seiketsu means staying clean. Shitsuke means that every time dirt or clutter appears, you keep asking "why?" to find the real cause, and then you build a system that keeps things from getting dirty and stick to it. (Chapter 31)

Sa row (sa, shi, su, se, so)

shikinguri (cash flow management)

Looking ahead at the cash coming into and going out of the restaurant, so that you never run short of money for payments. Profit and cash are not the same. You pay for purchases first, and card sales come in later. So you can run short of cash even when you are making a profit. (Chapter 27)

diastase

A name for the starch-breaking enzyme (amylase) found in daikon radish and other foods. It does not break down protein. Abalone becomes tender when simmered for a long time with daikon at 70 to 80°C. This is mainly because collagen turns into gelatin. The daikon's enzyme stops working early in the heating, so it is thought unlikely to play a role. (Chapter 18)

water activity

A number that shows how much of the water in a food bacteria can use (free water). It is expressed as a value from 0 to 1, with pure water as 1. Salt, sugar, and vinegar bind with water and reduce the free water. This lowers the water activity and makes it harder for bacteria to grow. It is one reason vinegared rice keeps well. (Chapters 2 and 6)

fast-twitch muscle and slow-twitch muscle

Fast-twitch muscle is white muscle used for sudden bursts of movement. It contains almost none of the red myoglobin that stores oxygen, so the flesh of sea bream and hirame is a clear white. Slow-twitch muscle is red muscle for swimming continuously over long periods. It is rich in myoglobin, and there is a lot of it in lean tuna. (Chapters 14 and 15)

break-even point

The amount of sales at which sales and costs are exactly equal and profit is zero. Below this amount, you are in the red. Above it, you are in the black. You find it by dividing costs into two kinds. Fixed costs, such as rent, come every month regardless of sales. Variable costs, such as ingredients, rise with sales. (Chapter 27)

Ta row (ta, chi, tsu, te, to)

tanaoroshi (stocktaking)

Counting and checking the quantity and value of the inventory left in the restaurant, at the end of each month or at similar times. The food cost actually used in a month is found as follows. Take the inventory at the start of the month, add that month's purchases, and subtract the inventory at the end of the month. (Chapter 28)

protein denaturation

A change in the shape of proteins caused by heat, acid, salt, and so on, which makes them set or turn cloudy white. Flesh turning white in su-jime, the surface setting in yushimo, and flesh firming in shio-jime are all examples of this. Once changed, proteins do not return to their original state. (Chapter 13)

isotonic solution

A liquid with the same osmotic pressure as the fluid inside cells. Water does not move in or out of the cells, so the cells are not damaged. For humans, salt water of about 0.9% (physiological saline) is isotonic. The body fluids of sea fish are about one-third the strength of seawater (about 1% salt). So the 3% salt water of tate-jio and of thawing in warm salt water is not isotonic for fish. It is slightly stronger. The body fluids of shellfish and squid are nearly isotonic with seawater. (Chapters 12 and 13)

trimethylamine

The main component of fishy odor. An odorless compound in the fish's body (trimethylamine oxide) is broken down by bacteria after death, and this substance forms. It is alkaline, so the acid of vinegar or citrus neutralizes it, and the aromas of ginger and green onion mask it. (Chapters 10 and 16)

Ha row (ha, hi, fu, he, ho)

hypoxanthine

A bitter compound formed when inosinic acid breaks down further. The more of it there is, the more the umami disappears and the more bitter the fish becomes. It also pushes up the K value. It is one of the signs that aging has gone past its limit. (Chapter 10)

budomari (yield)

The share of purchased ingredients that can actually be used. For a whole fish, it is the weight of usable flesh as a share of the weight of the whole fish. The lower the yield, the higher the true cost per 1 g of usable flesh. (Chapters 27 and 28)

honkarebushi (fully cured dried bonito)

Katsuobushi that has been molded and sun-dried again and again to remove as much water as possible. Enzymes from the mold break down the fat, so it makes a clear dashi with no off-flavors. It is steeped briefly in water at 85 to 90°C to draw out its aroma and inosinic acid. (Chapter 20)

Ma row (ma, mi, mu, me, mo)

makombu (premium kombu)

High-grade kombu for dashi, harvested in southern Hokkaido. It has a refined sweetness and a clear umami, and it contains a lot of glutamic acid. It is used both for kobujime and for dashi. (Chapter 20)

metmyoglobin

A brown pigment formed when the iron in myoglobin oxidizes. It is what lies behind "metoka," the dulling of tuna's red to brown. Metoka does not happen because the pigment binds too much oxygen. Once the pigment has changed, it does not return to its original red. Browning is slowed by low temperatures and by shielding the fish from air. (Chapter 14)

melanoidins

Brown pigments formed in the final stage of the Maillard reaction. They are the source of the reddish brown of akazu and of the color of tsume and soy sauce. They also help prevent oxidation. (Chapters 8 and 20)

C.3　Sushi-Bar Jargon and Sushi Restaurant Words

Sushi-bar jargon (fucho) is language understood only among people who do the same work. Sushi-bar jargon includes short words for moving work along quickly and words for conveying things that are awkward to say in front of guests. Today, some of these words, such as shari, neta, and gari, are also used by the general public. The origins of many of these words are unclear. So here we introduce the widely known theories, and where theories differ, we say "there are several theories."

shari (sushi rice)

Vinegared rice. A well-known theory says that the white grains of rice were likened to busshari, the relics (remains) of the Buddha. Another theory says the word comes from a word for rice in an ancient language of India, Sanskrit. There are several theories.

neta (topping)

The ingredient placed on top of sushi. It is said to be the word tane, meaning "seed" or "material," read backward.

gari (pickled ginger)

Ginger pickled in sweet vinegar. The name is said to come from "gari," the crunching sound it makes when you bite it.

agari (green tea)

Tea. In the world of geisha (the karyukai), freshly made tea was called agari-bana, and this is said to have become sushi-bar jargon. Another theory says the name comes from tea being served at the end of the meal, since agari also means "the finish." There are several theories about its origin.

murasaki (soy sauce)

Soy sauce. Murasaki means "purple." A well-known theory says the name comes from the purplish look of soy sauce, but there are several theories.

namida and sabi (wasabi)

Wasabi. It is called namida, meaning "tears," because its sharp heat rushes up the nose and brings tears to your eyes. Sabi is a shortened form of wasabi. Nigiri made without wasabi is called sabinuki.

gyoku (tamagoyaki)

Tamagoyaki. The word is the character tama, as in tamago (egg), read with its Chinese-style reading, gyoku.

geso (squid tentacles)

Squid legs. It is said to be a shortened form of gesoku, a word for the footwear that people take off at the entrance.

otemoto (chopsticks)

Chopsticks. The word means "at hand."

tsukeba (the chef's work area behind the counter)

The work area inside the counter where the chef makes nigiri. The name is said to come from the word tsukeru, which is used to mean making sushi. It is a different word from zuke, as in marinated tuna, which comes from another tsukeru, meaning "to marinate."

zuke (marinated in soy sauce)

Tuna or other fish marinated in a soy sauce mixture. The word comes from tsukeru, "to marinate." In the Edo period, tuna spoiled easily, so it was marinated in soy sauce before use.

hikarimono (silver-skinned fish)

Fish whose skin shines silver. Hikari means "light" or "shine." On the inside of the skin is a layer of crystals that reflects light like a mirror, so the skin looks shiny.

gunkan (battleship roll)

Nigiri wrapped all the way around with nori. The name comes from its shape seen from the side, which looks like a battleship (gunkan). It is a new form among nigiri. A well-known story says it was born after the start of the Showa period.

tekka (tuna roll or tuna bowl)

A roll (tekkamaki) or a rice bowl (tekkadon) made with tuna. One theory says the red of the tuna was likened to iron heated red-hot, which is tekka in Japanese. Another theory says it was made so that people could eat it at gambling dens (tekkaba) without getting their hands dirty. There are several theories.

kappa (cucumber)

Cucumber. The kappa is a water imp of Japanese folklore. A well-known theory says the name comes from cucumber being the kappa's favorite food. Another theory says the cut end of a cucumber looks like the dish on top of a kappa's head. There are several theories.

oaiso (the check)

The check. Aiso means "friendliness" or "courtesy." The word was originally used by the restaurant side. It is said to come from handing over the bill with the feeling of "We are sorry to be so unaccommodating." Some hold that guests should not properly use this word. But there are several theories about its origin and its use.

aniki (older stock) and otouto (newer stock)

Toppings bought earlier are aniki, "big brother." Newer toppings bought later are otouto, "little brother." These words let staff convey first in, first out without saying "old" in front of guests, as in "Use big brother first."

kataomoi (abalone)

Abalone. Kataomoi means "one-sided love." Abalone is a kind of sea snail, and its shell covers only one side. So the name plays on the proverb "iso no awabi no kataomoi," which means "one-sided love, like the abalone on the rocky shore."

yama (sold out)

Sold out. It is used as in "That topping has gone yama." Its origin is not clear.

C.4　Fish Names and Seasonal Words

At sushi restaurants, the same fish can go by different names depending on its size or the season. If you know the names, you learn the condition of the fish and its peak season at the same time. The peak seasons for each month are summarized in Appendix D.

shusse-uo (fish that changes its name as it grows)

A fish whose name changes as it grows. Shusse means "rising in the world." The term is said to compare these fish to people of the past, who took a new name each time they rose in rank. Examples include kohada (shinko, kohada, nakazumi, konoshiro), Japanese sea bass (seigo, fukko, suzuki), and buri, the Japanese amberjack (see the Sushi talk in this section).

shinko (baby kohada)

Young kohada, 4 to 6 cm long. It comes on the market from early summer into summer, and the first fish of the season fetch extremely high prices. The flesh is thin, so it is cured for only a very short time in both salt and vinegar.

sakura-dai (spring sea bream) and momiji-dai (autumn sea bream)

Sakura-dai is red sea bream in spring, before spawning, when its body takes on a vivid cherry-blossom pink. Sakura means "cherry blossom." Momiji-dai is red sea bream in autumn, when it has recovered from spawning and put on fat again. Momiji means "autumn leaves."

mugiwara-dai (early-summer sea bream, after spawning)

Red sea bream in early summer, thin after spawning. This is the time when its flavor drops. Mugiwara means "wheat straw," and the name is said to come from this being the season of the wheat harvest. For isaki (chicken grunt), by contrast, the peak season in the rainy season is called "mugiwara isaki."

kan-birame (winter hirame) and neko-matagi (post-spawning hirame)

Kan-birame is fatty hirame from late autumn to winter. Hirame after spawning in summer is called neko-matagi, which means "a cat steps over it." The name says the flavor drops so much that even a cat would step over the fish and walk on.

kan-buri (winter buri)

Buri at its fattiest, from December to February. After it spawns in spring, it loses its fat.

hatsu-gatsuo (the first skipjack of early summer) and modori-gatsuo (autumn skipjack)

Hatsu-gatsuo, from April to May, has little fat and a light taste. Modori-gatsuo, from September to October, is rich in fat.

nyubai iwashi (rainy-season sardine)

Fatty sardines in the rainy season, from June to July.

tsuyu anago (rainy-season anago)

Anago in the rainy season. The flesh is soft and the fat is mild, so it is well suited to simmered anago.

shin-ika (young cuttlefish)

The small young of the golden cuttlefish (sumi-ika, also called koika). It comes on the market in late summer, from August to September.

natsu maguro (summer bluefin)

Pacific bluefin tuna in summer, which has lost its fat through spawning. The acidity of its lean meat stands out. This is not the sourness of spoilage.